Elemental Arracheras

This traditional recipe for fajitas hails from the wood-fire cookouts on northern Mexico ranches.

2 skirt steaks (2-21/2 lbs. total), trimmed of membrane and fat
Juice of 6-7 limes
2-3 pickled jalapeños, minced
6 cloves garlic, minced
Salt to taste
1-2 medium onions, thickly sliced
Vegetable oil
Lime wedges
Flour tortillas (preferably thick), warmed

Place steaks in a shallow, nonreactive dish. Combine next three ingredients, and pour mixture over steaks. Refrigerate steaks for at least 6-8 hours, turning occasionally. Remove steaks from refrigerator and drain. Salt steaks, and let sit at room temperature for about 45 minutes. Coat onions with oil, and place on a piece of foil.

On an outdoor grill, fire up enough charcoal to form a single layer of coals. When coals are covered with gray ash, place steaks directly over the fire; place onions a little to the side, where they’ll get less heat. Grill steaks to medium-rare (about 5-6 minutes per side); remove from grill. Turn onions occasionally, removing when soft (some edges will be brown and crispy). Allow steaks to sit for 5 minutes before slicing diagonally across the grain into finger-length strips. Pile meat, onions, and lime wedges on a platter, and serve with tortillas. Yield: 6 generous servings.

From the October 1996 issue.

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