Big Bend Country

ADVENTURE, SCENIC HIKES, AND WIDE-OPEN SPACES BECKON VISITORS TO LANDSCAPES LITTLE CHANGED SINCE THE DAYS OF THE WILD WEST

MOUNTAIN TIME

Enjoy multicultural traditions and family-owned businesses in the largest city in West Texas

By Tyson Bird

The warmth and hospitality of El Paso residents is as much a hallmark of the border city as its famous desert winds. The community of nearly 700,000 is steeped in history and tradition. Spanish explorers established missions in the region in the 17th century, including Mission Ysleta, the oldest in Texas. The area became part of Texas after it was given to the U.S. following the Mexican-American War in the late 1840s. El Paso boomed in the late 1880s with the arrival of the Southern Pacific and Santa Fe railroads, and it remains a major hub for transportation, commerce, and culture across Texas, New Mexico, and Mexico. Many of El Paso’s longstanding businesses are family-owned, and they’ll treat you as such from the moment you walk in. Locals are quick to give recommendations, and their pride in the city is palpable.

STAY

Gardner Hotel and Hostel
This no-frills property, established in 1922, has hosted notable travelers, such as author Cormac McCarthy and bank robber John Dillinger. If you’re lucky, you may get to stay in Dillinger’s second-story room overlooking the city’s downtown. Rooms start at $65/night.

SHOP

Bodega Loya
Just outside El Paso in Socorro is Bodega Loya, where owners Ralph and Marty Loya grow and sell fresh produce on land that has been in the family for more than 100 years. Come early Friday through Sunday to enjoy coffee and beet juice, sample organic vegetables or fresh sourdough, and browse works from 25 local artists.

Chuco Relic
Show your 915 (El Paso’s area code) pride with T-shirts, stickers, hats, and prints from a rotating selection of El Paso artists. The shop has three locations. Visit the west store in the Montecillo Shopping District to enjoy the neighboring 2Ten café or Tin Man beer bar.

SEE

Franklin Mountains State Park
At the north end of El Paso, the Franklin Mountains’ highest peak towers 7,192 feet over the city. Stop by the Tom Mays Unit visitor center to learn about the geologic formation of the mountains or take the 0.7-mile nature walk trail to view the varieties of flora that call the desert home.

EAT

Accá
A short drive from downtown, Accá is an open-kitchen restaurant with a handful of tables in a charming historical building. Chef Andres Pablos brings experience from restaurants in Spain and Denmark to dishes like cured eggplant with cashew-parsley chutney and ribeye steak with kale chimichurri.

Barbacoa Breakfast
Indulge in the Mexican tradition of slow-cooked beef with breakfast at El Segundo Bakery, which serves homemade flour tortillas and an array of colorful pan dulce. Nearby favorite Laurita’s Kitchen offers barbacoa, plus breakfast plates with potatoes, eggs, and beans.

EVENT

Air Apparent
Celebrate aviation and military excellence at Amigo Airsho at Biggs Army Airfield at Fort Bliss. The October event returned in 2024 after a 12-year hiatus, offering attendees the chance to experience high-tech military equipment on land and in the air. amigoairsho.com

RV INFO

Rio Grande Valley Ranch RV Resort is located on a working horse ranch. It offers full hookups, paintball, pickleball, wood-fired pizza, and an on-site beer and wine bar. Rates start at $75/night and include water, electricity, and Wi-Fi. rgvrelpaso.com

Balmorhea State Park. Photo by Will Van Overbeek.

TEXAS STATE PARKS

Balmorhea State Park

Dive into the crystal-clear waters of this West Texas oasis. Home to the world’s largest spring-fed swimming pool, this unique park offers swimming, snorkeling, and scuba diving. Stay at the historic San Solomon Springs Courts for a charming overnight experience. With picturesque desert scenery, the park also provides opportunities for camping, stargazing, and picnicking. It’s a must-visit destination for relaxation and adventure in the Chihuahuan Desert, perfect for escaping the heat and
enjoying nature.

“I often get lost in my thoughts, but then I’ll pass one of the canals and see the catfish playing or a tiny pupfish guarding its eggs. In those quiet moments, my worries shrink. This park is their whole world—and having the chance to protect it has become one of the best parts of mine.” —Emily Dickerson, park interpreter

More Big Bend Country State Parks

For more information, directions, and amenities, get your free mobile guide to all 80-plus state parks: texasstateparks.org/app

Barton Warnock Visitor Center
Big Bend Ranch State Park
Davis Mountains State Park
Devils River State Natural Area
Fort Leaton State Historic Site
Franklin Mountains State Park
Hueco Tanks State Park & Historic Site
Monahans Sandhills State Park
Seminole Canyon State Park

Indian Lodge in Fort Davis. Photo by Brandon Jakobeit.

HISTORIC HOTELS

Railroads reached Far West Texas in the early 1880s, and visitors in need of lodging soon followed.

Lavish hotels sprang up throughout the region, many designed by renowned El Paso architect Henry C. Trost, who created hundreds of buildings in the Southwest.

The following restored Trost hotels provide high-end accommodations and services amid the scenery of the Big Bend region. Hotel El Capitan in Van Horn is a Mission Revival-style building opened in 1930. It features charming historical rooms, a rustically elegant lobby, and a regionally themed restaurant. The Hotel Paisano in Marfa opened in 1930 and features Spanish Colonial-style architecture with colorful ceramic tile, ornate woodwork, and wrought iron. The Holland Hotel in Alpine opened in 1928 and offers a charming selection of room sizes, furnishings, and décor in the heart of downtown. The 1927 Gage Hotel in Marathon contains authentic Big Bend-inspired décor, including handcrafted rustic doors and wrought-iron candelabra fixtures.

In El Paso, the Hotel Paso del Norte, Plaza Hotel Pioneer Park, and Aloft El Paso Downtown in the O.T. Bassett Tower are all recently restored.

Other rehabilitated historical hotels in the Big Bend Country region include Hotel Limpia and Indian Lodge in Fort Davis, Cibolo Creek Ranch near Marfa, and Hotel Indigo El Paso Downtown. Find other hotels in the Big Bend Country region and across the state at texastimetravel.com/hotels.