This article is part of “New School Barbecue,” our list of 25 barbecue joints worth the drive around the state.
NORTH AMERICA
OLIVE LOAF
Place of Origin: U.S.
As part of his Americana mission at Distant Relatives, owner Damien Brockway created this “poor man’s lunch meat” that peaked in the 1970s. In place of manzanilla olives and pimentos, Brockway stuffs an all-beef sausage with buttery Castelvetrano olives, smoked red jalapeños, and warming spices like mace and grains of paradise.
Where to Find It: Distant Relatives, Austin
FRITO PIE SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Texas
The Lone Star State favorite Frito pie can be traced back to San Antonio in the 1930s—but might be better known for its prevalence at high school football stadiums. Here, a chip bag is swapped for a snappy sausage casing as a vehicle for this combination of Fritos, fiery ground beef chili, and cheese.
Where to Find It: Vaqueros Texas Bar-B-Q, Allen
NEW YEAR’S BOUDIN
Place of Origin: Louisiana
Traditional Cajun boudin pairs pork, Louisiana rice, and savory spices, but Sunbird’s inventive seasonal offering switches things up. This December version partners pork steak burnt ends, pulled pork, black-eyed peas, parsley, and green onions with a Tabasco kick—a sure bet for a lucky New Year.
Where to Find It: Sunbird Barbecue, Longview
FIDEO CON POLLO SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Mexico
Originally from Spain, this noodle-laden chicken soup proliferated in central and northern Mexico, where wheat grew in abundance. A few years back, pitmaster Brandon Hurtado pulled off the unlikely feat of replicating it inside a sausage casing, complete with chopped vermicelli, tomato, and veggies.
Where to Find It: Hurtado BBQ, Arlington
CHILE RELLENO SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Mexico
A take on the classic jalapeño cheese sausage, this inverted version based on the chile relleno (which literally means “stuffed chile”) offers roasted green poblanos packed inside a sausage casing with brisket trimmings and pepper jack cheese.
Where to Find It: Tejas Chocolate + Barbecue, Tomball
ASIA
MISSING LINK
Place of Origin: Thailand
Panang curry is a classic Thai delicacy made with thick coconut milk, crushed peanuts, and either chicken or prawns. But in San Antonio, chefs Andrew Ho and Sean Wen add a smoked pork link from San Antonio’s Kiolbassa Smoked Meats alongside the aromatic sauce.
Where to Find It: Curry Boys BBQ, San Antonio
IRAQI SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Iraq
Inspired by his father’s kebab recipe, Salahodeen Abdul-Kafi’s halal sausage blends beef, charred peppers, and onions with Iraqi spices like sumac and allspice inside a taut lamb casing.
Where to Find It: Kafi BBQ, Irving
TOGRASHI + SHISHITO PEPPER SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Japan
Togarashi is a chile-based Japanese spice blend that incorporates ingredients such as black sesame seeds, toasted seaweed, dried citrus, and Sichuan peppercorns. Here, it mingles with bits of green shishito peppers in an all-pork sausage.
Where to Find It: Blood Bros. BBQ, Bellaire
LAO SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Laos
Goldee’s co-owner Nupohn Inthanousa brings the flavors of his family’s Lao culture to an herb-laced sausage stuffed with lime leaves, basil, mint, cilantro, lemongrass, and other aromatics. The occasional special is served with sticky rice and sweet-and-sour jeow som dipping sauce.
Where to Find It: Goldee’s Bar-B-Q, Fort Worth
BULGOGI SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Korea
Translating to “fire meat,” bulgogi is an ancient dish that typically consists of thinly shaved beef marinated in soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, and ginger. In place of sirloin or rib eye, this Central Texas destination subs in wagyu beef trimmings seasoned with the sweet and savory notes of the marinade.
Where to Find It: Eaker Barbecue, Fredericksburg
KIMCHI
Place of Origin: Korea
The sharp bite of salted, fermented vegetables is complemented by the tangy heat of Sriracha in a vibrant handmade pork link.
Where to Find It: Smoke & Bone BBQ, Fort Worth
EUROPE
TEX-CZECH SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Czechoslovakia
An homage to the influence of Czech butchers on Central Texas barbecue, this sausage has a garlicky beef and pork grind accented with spices like chile flakes, coriander, nutmeg, and mustard.
Where to Find It: Micklethwait Barbecue, Austin
POLISH SAUSAGE
Place of Origin: Poland
A recreation of the classic sausage brought to Texas by 19th-century Polish immigrants, this 100% coarse-ground pork link is seasoned with marjoram, garlic, and black pepper.
Where to Find It: InterStellar BBQ, Austin
BBQ SALAMI
Place of Origin: Italy
You can find smoked bologna in other parts of the South, but at Angelo’s they specialize in another soft, cooked deli meat: Cotto salami. The combination of pork, garlic, and fennel is smoked in the pit and served on rye bread.
Where to Find It: Angelo’s BBQ, Fort Worth
GERMAN-STYLE BEEF LINK
Place of Origin: Germany
These mainstays of the Texas trinity are about as simple as they come: coarsely ground beef seasoned with salt, black pepper, and either paprika or cayenne. Evie Mae’s opts for the former, while also sneaking a little garlic into the brisket grind.
Where to Find It: Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque, Wolfforth
Illustrations by Mike Reddy