When observed from the top of a West Texas mountain at night, the small town of Presidio seems to bustle with shining lights and activity. However, most of the twinkling emanates from Ojinaga, Presidio’s larger sister city in Mexico. The Texas town, population 3,200, is both a confluence of cultures and of two great rivers, the Rio Conchos and the Rio Grande. It’s also a gateway to some of the most scenic landscapes in the state. Big Bend Ranch, our largest and most rugged state park, lies to the east, and the remote Chinati Mountains reside farther north. Still, this Chihuahuan Desert town is more than a place to pass through; while the landscape may be harsh, locals welcome visitors to learn how Presidio developed into an oasis of hidden attractions and history, where legends of Pancho Villa loom large. Improvements to the Chisos Basin at nearby Big Bend National Park, set to begin construction in 2025, will encourage more travelers to visit this remote corner of our state. Just keep an eye out for roadrunners on your way in.
El Paso
4 hours
San Antonio
7 hours
Austin
7.5 hours
Dallas
8.5 hours
Houston
10 hours
1 ⁄ CHINATI HOT SPRINGS
This resort is upriver from Presidio in an otherwise forbidding desert. Its stone hot spring tub under large cottonwood trees is an ideal place to relax and indulge in casual birdwatching after a day of intensive hikes. Cabins start at $150/night.
2 ⁄ THE BEAN
This Presidio mainstay serves up impressive chicken enchiladas verdes and chilaquiles as well as American dishes. Purchase tortillas from the eatery’s in-house tortilleria for your Big Bend camping expeditions.
3 ⁄ BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
This counterpart to Big Bend National Park straddles the Rio Grande and contains 313,000 acres of scenic desert mesas. A high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle is required to navigate the dirt roads of the park’s interior, but River Road along the border is scenic and accessible to all vehicles. Stretch your legs with a walk on the short Closed Canyon and Hoodoos hiking trails.
4 / FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE
In the late 1800s, the adobe structure was a trading post between San Antonio and Chihuahua, Mexico, but it now houses a visitors center for Big Bend Ranch. The museum, artifact collection, and interpretive trail are great introductions to the region’s history.
5 / THE PINK FLAMINGO
This dessert trailer is ironically owned by two local dentists. Their extra-large snow cones, topped with Tajín and chamoy, are a remedy for the desert heat. The truck also serves ice cream, mangonadas, and coffee.
6 / PINTO CANYON ROAD
If you have a truck or SUV, this scenic route between Marfa and Presidio is well worth driving. Peek at the future Chinati Mountains State Natural Area and pass through a private ranch to spot wildlife.