A shiny black convertable with a longhorn skull on the front is parked under an awning with a lit-up sign reading "Cowboy Motel" at the front
Scott DuboisA vintage British MGB sports car and disco ball welcome guests to the Cowboy Motel.

A Remote Getaway in the Western Hill Country

Caverns, cold plunges, and a scenic drive through the Upper Nueces River Valley

Drive around the western edge of the Hill Country between Rocksprings, Camp Wood, and Brackettville, and you may get a sneaking suspicion you’re being watched. Don’t worry, it’s just the eyes of exotic antelopes like blackbuck and oryx behind the high fences of hunting ranches. But the area’s rugged and rolling hills hold more than hunters’ quarry. They conceal caves and clear waters that draw visitors to this remote region year-round. Groups of motorcyclists carve the winding ranch roads on pretty spring and fall days, and in the summertime, families gather along the Nueces River to swim and escape the heat. Visitors looking to go deeper can explore caverns or learn more about the area’s tumultuous frontier past. There aren’t any large hotels or chain restaurants here—and that’s part of the appeal. It’s the Hill Country of wilder landscapes and less development. Now is the time to visit before everyone else realizes what they’re missing out on.

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1 ⁄ COWBOY MOTEL

Cowgirl artist Laura Goodson transformed this spot on Camp Wood’s main street into a quirky art gallery and cozy motel. Grab breakfast across the street at cash-only Casa Falcon. Rooms start at $139/night.

A burger and French fries on a plate next to a tall bottle of Coca-Cola
Scott Dubois

2 ⁄ KING BURGER

This mom and pop restaurant on US 377 in Rocksprings cooks up an excellent double-­meat cheeseburger and fries and enchiladas smothered in a house-made sauce.

A large rock outcropping with trees above a mirror-like blue lake
Scott Dubois

3 ⁄ NUECES RIVER CROSSING

A low water crossing ­under the State Highway 55 bridge just south of Camp Wood creates a simple beach to enjoy the Nueces. To swim in the deeper lake, visit nearby Wes Cooksey Park. Admission is $5 to access a diving dock above the dam and ­under ancient live oaks.

A group of people hike through a cave with large rock outcroppings and stalagtites
Scott Dubois

4 ⁄ KICKAPOO CAVERN STATE PARK

The park between Brackettville and Rocksprings boasts 20 known caves including Kickapoo Cavern, which has one of the largest natural formations in the state: giant limestone columns rising 80 feet from the cave floor. Tours take place every Saturday at 1 p.m.

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5 ⁄ DEVIL’S SINKHOLE STATE NATURAL AREA

In warmer months, up to 3 million Mexican free-tailed bats emerge at night from the 350-foot-deep cavern located on this preserve just northeast of Rocksprings. Take a guided tour to the viewing platform above the cave entrance and get close enough to feel the wind from bat wings.

A person in traditional Native American wear performs a dance in front of two large white tepee
Scott Dubois

6 ⁄ FORT CLARK MUSEUM

Fort Clark is a frontier outpost established in 1852 along the spring-fed Las Moras Creek. Visitors can walk the fort’s historic grounds and visit the museum, open weekends 1-4 p.m., located in the old guard post.

An illustration of a native American wearing a feathered headdress
An illustration of an RV
Zachary Wieland
From the July/August 2024 issue

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