Occupying the eastern edge of the Big Country—the section of Texas extending from Eastland County to the Permian Basin and north to the Panhandle—the 2,000-person town of Albany sits in a land of wide horizons and undulating hills, mesquite, and prickly pear. On the surface, it’s small town Texas as Larry McMurtry would have written it: a courthouse square, a main street, and one stoplight. But don’t let the apparent sleepiness of this community fool you. Once a buffalo hunting outpost, today Albany is a prime destination for deer hunters, who gather in the area each fall. And the town’s art and music scenes make even large cities envious. The historical Aztec Theater, for example, regularly hosts marquee acts like Pat Green and Shane Smith and the Saints; and Albany’s CareFest, now in its seventh year, was recently headlined by the Josh Abbott Band. A jewel of the plains, Albany offers surprises aplenty for those who stop to look around.
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1 ⁄ STASNEY’S COOK RANCH
This scenic 25,000-acre guest ranch can accommodate single lodgers or a group of up to 60 guests. Amenities include hunting packages, a pool, and a lake for fishing and swimming. Visitors can arrange a wildlife safari to view the ranch’s elk, deer, turkeys, and aoudads. Rooms start at $110/night.
2 ⁄ GOODNIGHT STEAKHOUSE AND SALOON
The mesquite-grilled fillet is superb at this steakhouse, which also specializes in other Texas classics like fried pickles and chicken-fried steak. In addition to excellent food, this rustic spot is a go-to for live music.
3 ⁄ ICEHOUSE RESTAURANT
A Tex-Mex joint up front with a bar and patio in the back, this is where Albany locals unwind. The live music stage is surrounded by chicken wire, a nod to the raucous Texas roadhouses of yore.
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4 ⁄ FORT GRIFFIN STATE HISTORIC SITE
Remnants of Fort Griffin, established in 1867, still dot the hill of this historic site just north of Albany. You’ll find the original stone foundations of several buildings, a few recreated structures, and a small museum.
5 ⁄ THE OLD JAIL ART CENTER
Housed in a jail built in 1878, the collection includes works by masters like Picasso and Matisse, Chinese art dating to the Tang Dynasty, and rugged landscape paintings by regional artists.
6 ⁄ BLANTON-CALDWELL TRADING COMPANY
Blanton-Caldwell contains three shops—a women’s boutique, a kitchen store, and a men’s outfitter—accommodating a variety of shoppers. The latter sells top-notch fishing shirts, work wear, and grilling gear.
