Dozens of Texas towns have a population in the low 2,000s—from Canadian to Rio Hondo and West Tawakoni to East Bernard. But among these, Shiner looms a little larger than life in the Texan consciousness, thanks to a rich history and a historical brewery.
Before the famous Spoetzl Brewery, home of the beloved Shiner beer, there was Half Moon, a trading post and post office in Lavaca County, about 90 miles south of Austin and 90 miles west of San Antonio. But when Henry B. Shiner donated nearby land for the San Antonio and Aransas Pass Railway, in 1887, it was that land that became the town of Shiner. Soon, it became populated by Czech and German immigrants, who decided what they really needed was their own beer.
K. Spoetzl Brewery & Distillery Brewery
Open Mon-Thu 10:30 a.m.-6 p.m; Fri-Sat 10:30 a.m.-8 p.m; Sun 11 a.m.-6 p.m.
603 E Brewery St., Shiner. 361-594-3852. shiner.com
The Spoetzl Brewery celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2009, but the truth is the brewery spent most of its pre-Prohibition years in a precarious spot. Galveston brewer Herman Weiss was hired as brewmaster, but troubles forced him to close the brewery in 1912, and it was put up for auction in 1913. The Home Brewing Company gave it a short go, but it wasn’t until Kosmos Spoetzl took over in late 1914 (and subsequently made sure his brewery was one of the handful in Texas to survive Prohibition) that the town’s future as a cool place to visit was assured.
The brewery has long been a Texas tourism hotspot, offering daily tours, weekend events, and beer as often as the law will allow. In recent years, it launched a line of distilled spirits and opened an on-site barbecue restaurant. And in October, a new distillery bar and a full-scale restaurant are expected to open on the grounds. The Spoetzl Brewery will host the largest Texas beer collectibles show of the year on May 3, starting at 8 a.m. Drop by to pick up new and vintage items.
But beer remains its primary output, ranging from the new—including seasonal beers Strawberry Blonde and Lemonade Shandy—to the classics like Premium and Bock. The brewery’s newest beer, Texas Special, which hit stores this spring, resurrects a long-abandoned name. When Kosmos died in 1950, his daughter, Cecile, took over the brewery and changed their product to a lighter, milder beer to meet public demand. Called “Texas Special,” this was the only beer, other than the seasonal bock, that Spoetzl produced between 1950 and 1970.
“It is a beer with a storied history that we want to bring to a whole new generation,” says Shiner Brand Manager Nick Weiland. Having tried the beer, I find it’s spot-on in targeting Texans who like beer-flavored beer that hits the crisp spot between bitter and sweet. Spoetzl intends to keep the beer on the market and it’s available at the brewery.
The town of Shiner is more than its brewery, however, and if you need a respite from the crowds, visit Antiques, Art & Beer. Only a mile away, it offers a whole different vibe for a cozy afternoon or early evening. At first glance, sure, it looks like many other Texas antiques shops, piled to the ceiling with a mix of crafts, art, oddities and antique collectibles. But there’s a friendly bar in the middle, where you can sip on a cold pint of beer (or even wine!) as locals gossip and you consider whether your living room really needs that vintage conversation piece.
Not all history requires liquid refreshments, of course. The Edwin Wolters Memorial Museum, houses the lifelong collecting efforts of its namesake, a prominent local businessman who began collecting as a young boy. After his death in late 1962, Wolters’ daughter donated his home and property to the city of Shiner in 1963 to be used as a museum. In addition to weapons, militaria, coins, and the far-ranging objects of an all-around collector’s interest, the museum has grown over the decades to represent an impressively thorough accounting of area history.
Keep the history theme going by dining at the Shiner Palace Saloon, which was built in 1911 as a surgical hospital, complete with doctors’ offices and a drugstore. Though it’s only open Thursday through Saturday, it’s a feast for the eyes as much as the stomach, displaying fascinating local relics and taxidermy that trample the more common throw-a-bunch-of-random-stuff-on-the-walls décor that is common at most Texas-themed saloons. The entreés are tasty, if a little more predictable—Texans want their chicken-fried steak and big burgers. But the appetizers offer more exotic choices such as boudin egg rolls and gator bites. And, naturally, you’ll want to wash it down with a pint of Shiner beer.
More For the Road
Kloesel’s Steakhouse and Bar about 10 minutes away in Moulton easily mixes the ambiance of a small town restaurant in an old home with a more sophisticated dining experience.
Bluestem, a destination west of Shiner describes themselves as an “all Texas-made gift shop, farm store and micro bakery.” If you’ve ever needed a cinnamon roll and a hand-crocheted emotional support chicken, this is the spot.
The Saints Cyril and Methodius Catholic Church offers a chance for some self-reflection in a setting of incredible architecture and beauty.
