Texas Burgers Bring Back the Bling

Texas has more burger joints than every other state besides California, so it’s safe to assume that of the 50 billion burgers eaten in this country every year (about 70 per person), Texans are responsible for a fair share of the damage. And of those burgers consumed, more and more are of the smash patty variety. The hottest trend on a bun, the style has sprouted a whole cottage industry of backyard flattop grills and $200 specialty presses and spatulas.

With that kind of runaway popularity, it’s not shocking that restaurant experts are now predicting the smash burger bubble to burst in 2025. We’re already seeing signs of that in Texas where diners are looking in the exact opposite direction for their burger fix: Fancy offerings that share a culinary philosophy of unabashed decadence coupled with thoughtful adornment. Here, five blinged-out burgers that are a sign of things to come.

Cullum’s Attaboy

A burger for breakfast might sound excessive, but not at this brunch-only specialist in San Antonio. A dose of hollandaise is only one of the optional toppers to enjoy a coarsely ground, 4-inch Peeler Farms-sourced patty layered with Gruyere cheese, white onion, and an aioli spiked with extra umami. Chef Christopher Cullum goes even further with his glacé, a labor-intensive endeavor seldom scene outside of French restaurants.

To make the rich, velvety sauce, Cullum starts by roasting beef bones and mirepoix in water. After several hours, the ensuing stock is reduced to a dark and glossy maple syrup-like consistency. The Attaboy staff then pours the glacé tableside onto the burger. Like caramelized onions, the sauce adds an intense savory element, similar to au jus amplifying a slab of prime rib. Although you’re left with the impression of having indulged in a meal from the era of Paul Bocuse, this is hardly a genteel experience. Fair warning: The decadence of it all will almost assuredly be smeared across your face and fingers like you have been crushing a platter of well-mopped baby back ribs.  111 Kings St., San Antonio. cullumsattaboy.com

Billy Can Can

Not every burger with bling gets served in fancy digs and hushed tones. Take for instance, chef Matt Ford’s boisterous saloon in the Victory Park district of Dallas. A protegee of Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio, Ford also offers luxe items like venison tartare and wild boar lasagna. But never skip the bacon cheeseburger here.

An 8-ounce Texas-raised wagyu patty sits atop a locally sourced brioche bun from Empire Baking Company in Dallas. The half pound of beef is draped with a slice of longhorn cheddar, Benton’s country bacon, caramelized white onions, pickled jalapeños, and a house-made mustard.

That probably sounds like a lot—and it is—but the balance of flavors is impeccable. Cheddar is a smarter choice than American cheese because it helps ease up on the salt factor—something adequately covered by the strips of smoky bacon. And the pickled jalapeños deliver a double hit of subtle heat and noticeable acidity. But the real splendor of the whole package comes from a mustard that incorporates Community Beer Co.’s Citra Slice IPA. The addition of hops and malt imbues the sharp condiment with extra body and floral notes that provide a much-needed contrast to the fattiness of the beef and bacon. Who says mustard can’t be majestic? 2836 Victory Park Lane, Dallas. billycancan.com

Bambino

A pizzeria might seem like an unusual place to find a notable burger but consider these words from chef Fiore Tedesco: “The burger is a tool of communication between me, my chefs, my team, and the public.” Believe me, this guy loves a good burger.

After being dared by one of his chefs to reimagine the fast-food world’s mushroom Swiss fad of the 1980s, Fiore took on the challenge with burger-loving zeal. Gone was the typical Swiss in favor of Fontina cheese from the Lombardi region of Italy. And button mushrooms were never a consideration. Instead, he makes a conserva, or preserve, with cremini and shitake mushrooms from local farm, Hi-Fi Mycology. To pull that off, he poaches the mushrooms in olive oil, vinegar, herbs, and aromatics.

One might assume the chef’s choice of using Gyulais—a cross breed of Texas wagyu and French Charlais beef—is the ultimate act of luxuriousness. But it’s the conserva that really stands out. When asked about his inspiration regarding the mushroom spread, Tedesco cites Italian chef Massimo Battura who told him: “[One] should be constantly obsessive about the quality of the ingredients.” 979 Springdale Road, Austin. bambinoaustin.com

Andiron

For real steakhouse aficionados, it might sound like sacrilege to skip the prime ribeye and Iowa-raised filets in favor of a burger. But consider this Houston offering as an exception to the rule. Using the cap and trim from wagyu New York strip steaks imported from Japan and Australia, along with prime dry-aged brisket from Niman Ranch, chef Michael O’Connor forges a patty with world-class pedigree.

Grilled over a wood fire, the burger is crowned with caramelized onions cooked down for two hours in bone marrow fat, a slathering of Duke’s mayo, and a slice of Barber’s two-year aged English cheddar. Don’t gloss over the latter, as O’Connor painstakingly hunted for the exact right cheese to stand up to such savory beef. Tracked down at Houston Dairy Maids, one of Texas’ best cheese shops, the vintage cheddar both complements and helps cut through the fat of the wagyu. Consider the whole package the Rolls Royce of burgers. 3201 Allen Parkway, Suite E100, Houston. andironhtx.com