San Antonioās culinary scene has become an undeniable force in recent years. Bolstered by the establishment of the Culinary Institute of Americaās Texas campus more than a decade ago in the now-flourishing historic Pearl District, plus a 2017 UNESCO designation as a Creative City of Gastronomy, San Antonio is home to chefs who are serving innovative dishes and bold cocktails to locals and travelers alike.
Last fall, the first-ever Tasting Texas Food & Wine Festival, a four-day statewide event sponsored by the James Beard Foundation, drew internationally known chefs to the city for tastings and demonstrations. It showcased the cityās own formidable talent, cementing San Antonioās food and beverage reputation on the larger stage. But along with the restaurants, food halls, market stalls, and caterers that are contributing to this gastronomic rise, cocktail culture has also blossomed. A new generation of mixologists is raising a glass to the cityās diverse cuisine options, shaking up menus with classic cocktails and new twists on old favorites. We explored a selection of the cityās most legendaryāand soon-to-be legendaryācocktails, each offering a special sip of San Antonio’s culture.
Mangonada
Whatās in it: Frozen fresh mango sorbet, swirled with chamoy and spiked with tequila, if you prefer, plus a tamarind straw for sipping
Where to find it: La Gloria (various locations)
When founder of La Gloria and chef Johnny Hernandez first tried a mangonada in Mexico City about 20 years ago, he marveled at the complexity of such a layered yet seemingly simple dessert drink. The silky, sweet mango mixed with spicy, salty, and sweet chamoyāa condiment made of pitted fruits, chilies, sugar, and saltāwas transformative. When planning the concept for La Gloria in 2010, Ā Hernandez knew he wanted to include an alcoholic version of the beloved frozen Mexican treat, which he says wasnāt yet widely available in San Antonio. Along with mango, he added Texas sweet cantaloupe, house-made chamoyāused both as a syrup and for dusting on the rimāplus a quality aƱejo tequila.
āAƱejos go great with tropical fruits,ā he says. āFor a great mangonada, you donāt need the perfect, pretty mango thatās nice at the grocery store. You need the sweetest, creamiest mango.ā
The result is a refreshing summer cocktail that feels quintessentially San Antonio.
Ā
Three Emmas
Whatās in it: Pearl Beer, rose cordial, sherry, gin, lemon and grapefruit juice
Where to find it: Hotel Emma
This drink, served at Hotel Emmaās Sternewirth bar or as a complimentary welcome beverage upon check-in, pays homage to the Pearlās beer manufacturing roots and the sordid tale of āthree Emmas.ā
Legend says there were three women named Emma in the life of Pearl Brewery founder Otto Koehler. There was his wife, Emma, who later ran the factory after his death; and two nurses, also named Emma, who became entangled in affairs with Koehler. In the end, legend says one of the nurses shot and killed him. Thereās a clever little tagline about the Three Emmas at Sternewirth, too: āOne is great. Two are sinful. Three will kill you.ā
Since opening, the recipe has been adjusted slightly from its original inception, a boozier version made from gin, apricot liqueur, Gran Classico, and absinthe that wasnāt broadly palatable for all guests, though you can still order this by asking for a Seele Von Emma.
“[The new version] has a subtle nutty flavor, balanced with the hint of rose from the cordial, and a refreshing squeeze of Texas Ruby Red grapefruit and lemon juice,ā says Jennifer Clark, bar manager at Sternewirth. āItās sweet, refreshing, and definitely sinful.ā
Carajillo
Whatās in it: Coffee, Licor 43, whipped cream
Where to find it: La Cantera Resort & Spa, La PanaderĆa Bakery & Cafe at La Cantera Heights
Though its American cousin, the espresso martini, has enjoyed its moment in the spotlight for a few years, the carajillo offers a more complex take. Usually employing Licor 43, a Spanish liqueur that boasts 43 different ingredientsāorange and vanilla are primary notes, along with hints of cinnamonāthe carajillo marries coffee with sweet cream and citrus and can be served hot or cold.
āThe origins of the carajillo didnāt always involve the now famous ingredient, Licor 43. It was any hard liquor. Thereās a lot of room to make it unique,ā says Chris Caldwell, La Cantera Resort & Spa’s beverage manager. La Cantera has been experimenting with infusing its Licor 43 with guajillo peppers and cinnamon and topping the coffee concoction with a hand-whipped cream for a decadent after-dinner treat.
Margarita
Whatās in it: Fresh lime juice or other fresh juices or purees, blanco or reposado tequila (may be infused), Cointreau or triple sec, simple syrup
Where to find it: Nearly everywhereābut specifically, The Fruteria, La Fogata, Boudroās Texas Bistro, JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa
When it comes to margaritas, loyalties run strong in San Antonio. Hernandez says the best ones start with the best ingredients. āItās very basic, but you can screw it up really easily if you donāt have the right balance of acidity and sweetness,ā he says.
āI donāt agree with using cheap tequila for a good margarita. Quality agave spirits is essential. Good water and good tequila,” Hernandez says. “You need fresh lime juice, but I complement that with extracted pineapple for some tropical notes in the background. These are subtle flavors that leave the customers wondering, āWhy is that margarita so good?āā
Notable mentions in the flavored margarita category include Boudroās Prickly Pear Margarita, a famous River Walk tradition, is prepared with fresh prickly pear cactus juice. You can find the restaurant’s recipe on Facebook. The JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spaās strawberry jalapeƱo margarita uses house-infused strawberry jalapeƱo tequila for a slow, sweet burn.
Purple Moon
Whatās in in: vodka, elderflower liqueur, ube extract, ginger, lemon, sparkling sake
Where to find it: DASHI Sichuan Kitchen + Bar
Restaurateur Kristina Zhao infuses the menu at her newest San Antonio restaurant, DASHI, with inventive Sichuanese flavors. In particular, check out the Purple Moon, a sparkling cocktail with a splash of deep purple ube. An inspired Asian twist on the classic French 75, the cocktail is garnished with a slice of lotus root dyed with ube to resemble a purple moon. One diner described their experience at DASHI as āsomething out of a dream.ā
Old Fashioned
Whatās in it: Bourbon, bitters, simple syrup, cherry
Where to find it: Landrace,Ā Esquire Tavern,Ā Jazz, TX
San Antonio mixologists enjoy remixing old favorites, and the Old Fashioned provides an excellent canvas for trying out new ideas. Chef Steve McHughās Landrace features a mahogany trolley that delivers different customization options for the classic Old Fashioned cocktail. Patrons can incorporate mezcal, bourbon infused with mesquite beans, or house-made charred pineapple bitters.
āIt was important to me that our cocktails reflected the same philosophy guiding us in the kitchen so that we were honoring the native ingredients of our region throughout the restaurant,ā McHugh says.