First, she began experimenting with jelly recipes using mesquite beans. Then, in a kitchen mishap, she roasted the beans in the oven when she intended to dry them. βMy boys were fighting, the FedEx guy was at the door, and I just got totally sidetracked,β Victoria recalls. She ground the roasted beans into coffee, recalling something sheβd read about Texas Civil War soldiers using it as βcamp coffeeβ in times of scarcity.
After peddling her jams and coffees at area farmers markets for a few years, some customers started inquiring about flour, which could also be milled from mesquite beans. She figured sheβd give that a shot, too.
The result is a gluten-free, nutrient-rich product that can substitute for regular flour in baking but can also be sprinkled raw on food like a condiment or a natural sweetening agent.
“Weβve brought mainstream awareness of this delicious crop, and we hope to define it as a true flavor of Texas.β
βI have a lot of customers who put it in their salt shaker so that when theyβre craving something sweet, theyβll sprinkle it on their oatmealβsome people even sprinkle it over their vegetables,β she says.
The finely milled golden flour smells like nutty cinnamon. Taste it on its own and youβll get hints of sweet, spicy mocha and dark fruit.
βSome people ask me, βDid you add sugar to this? You didnβt add vanilla? You didnβt add flavoring?β and Iβll tell them, βNo, it has natural sugar. This is straight-up mesquite bean flour,ββ Victoria says.
She praises the productβs versatilityβ it can be used in baked goods such as banana-nut bread and cookies, as well as to make sweet tea by mixing a few tablespoons into brewed tea and straining with cheesecloth.
Though mesquite beans havenβt become a staple of modern American diets, they were a major food source for indigenous communities in the Southwest and Mexico for thousands of years. The beans are harvested summer through early fall.
Though a lot of mesquite bean products on the market come from South America, Texas is home to 75 percent of mesquite trees in the U.S. and stands poised to emerge as a bigger supplier.
βWeβre now at a unique place where we can reclaim mesquite pods as an important culinary ingredient thatβs representative of our foodways,β says Sandeep Gyawali, Austin-based founder of Texas Mesquite Movement, whose mission is to revive the use of mesquite in kitchens across the state. βOver the past several years, there has been development of a mesquite pod processing industry in the state, along with food and beverage artisans willing to use it in their craft. Weβve brought mainstream awareness of this delicious crop, and we hope to define it as a true flavor of Texas.β
The ingredientβs low glycemic index is especially important in the Rio Grande Valley, Victoria says, because of the high rate of diabetes in the area. Recent reports from the University of TexasβRio Grande Valley place the rate of Type II diabetes in the Valley at about 30 percent, nearly 20 percent higher than the statewide rate.
Victoria says she enjoys educating people about Texasβ edible native plants that have largely been ignored in modern times. While Cappadona Ranch currently sells its products in local stores and online, Victoria hopes to expand the business throughout Texas and the rest of the country.
βIβm trying to educate the public as much as I can because this is a rediscovery,β she says. βItβs natural, itβs native, and itβs so nutritious for us.β
Itβs an idea worth chewing on.