A view of Limpia Canyon on the R.M. Sproul Ranch shows storm clouds skirting the horizon. (Photo by E. Dan Klepper)

A view of Limpia Canyon on the R.M. Sproul Ranch shows storm clouds skirting the horizon. (Photo by E. Dan Klepper)

From under the porch shade of a peaceful, secluded, rock-faced getaway near FortĀ  Davis, the fading sunlight tangles with pastures and palisades, rising and falling along the mountain topography. In these waning days of summer, late-afternoon rays always tug against the shadows as if dusk were a game, making the tussle of day and night seem whimsical against the landscapeā€™s expanse. Night ultimately wins out, of course, just as it always does, but soon, above the shelterā€™s rustic canopy, stars by the billions poke slowly through the darkness, radiant and bright, until all the light of the warm summer day appears to come bouncing back.

With an elevation of 5,000 feet above sea level, Fort Davis basks in a season all its own during what are known as dog days in other, less lofty locales. This hybrid season of warm spring rains and cool autumn nights makes the region an ideal destination to escape the last of summerā€™s heat. Evidence of the special climate surrounds La CabaƱa Escondida (ā€œThe Hidden Cabinā€), a cozy log cabin on the R.M. Sproul Ranch thatā€™s hidden among the rocky outcrops of Limpia Canyon, two miles north of town. Meadowlands of summer grass, seared and seed-ripe, crest and fall in sudden gusts just steps from the cabinā€™s doorway. At the pastureā€™s edge, the grasses give way to bluffs of volcanic strata, and from their vantage point, an observer can witness the calamity of thunderclouds as they strike and then downpour, inundating the distant valleys with both fire and water all at once.

Jennifer Sproul Whitesell, a fifth-generation member of the Fort DavisĀ ranching family, handles reservations for La Cabana Escondida (“The Hidden
Cabin”) and the remote Ranch House, the original Sproul family homeĀ and ranch headquarters. Whitesell also manages Mary’s Post Office, a quaint,Ā one-room sleeper in Fort Davis. Built in 1908, Mary’s features a clawfootĀ bathtub and lies within walking distance of shops and restaurants.

The region offers other “secret” lodgings, alternatives to the popular, butĀ often filled-to-capacity vacation spots oflndian Lodge and Hotel Limpia,Ā many of them within reach of both Fort Davis and your pocketbook. FartherĀ up the mountain from La Cabafia, visitors will find the upscale HarvardĀ Lodge, located on the other Sproul ranchā€”the H.E. Sproul Ranchā€”ownedĀ by Kerith and Tony Timmons. The H.E. Sproul Ranch anchors a stretchĀ of West Texas landscape unmatched by any in the state. The view from itsĀ lodge reveals geography little changed despite a century’s worth of advancingĀ modernism. The high-desert grasslands seem to roll on for miles, whileĀ the distant peaks of Locke, Fowlkes, Livermore, and Pine rickrack the horizon.Ā The Timmonses continue to operate the H.E. Sproul as a working cattleĀ and hunting ranch, while offering the lodge and its accommodationsā€”the Ranch Suites and the private, rock-faced Cabin- for conferences, parties,Ā and vacation rentals. All accommodations feature comfortable, classic Western-style furnishings, including leather chairs and handmade iron beds.

The decor in the lodge includes an unusual tableau showcasing “Newt,”Ā a lion hunting dog. In it, Newt, deceased but meticulously preserved,Ā keeps a snarling mountain lion, also skillfully mounted, at bay. The dogĀ belonged to Henry Mcintyre, one of the Davis Mountains’ infamous lionĀ hunters, and in this dramatic scene, Newt (who actually died of naturalĀ causes a few years ago) is cornering his final lion.

For guests who wish to enjoy an unusual, off-the-beaten-track experience, the H.E. Sproul Ranch will schedule Jeep tours for an up-close look at the Davis Mountains topography.Ā The ranch’s rugged, volcanic geologyĀ provides a four-wheel-drive ride at itsĀ most authentic, and the tour featuresĀ stunning
mountain vistas and wildlife sightingsĀ along the way. The Timmonses also run theĀ Harvard Hotel, a well-appointed bastion ofĀ modern conveniences hidden behind a WildĀ West faƧade in downtown Fort Davis. Like herĀ cousin Jennifer Whitesell, Kerith TimmonsĀ is a fifth-generation Sproul. Both the H.E.Ā Sproul Ranch and the RM. Sproul Ranch areĀ part of the original land-and-cattle operationĀ established in 1886 by Kerith’s and Jennifer’sĀ great-great-grandfather, Robert Stuart Sproul.

The region’s mild temperatures also makeĀ late summer an ideal season for adventurers who wish to explore the DavisĀ Mountains on foot or horseback. The Fort Davis Stables, on the edge ofĀ town, offers scheduled rides. Equestrians who like to travel with their ownĀ mounts will find several horse-friendly trails in the area In fact, many trailsĀ accommodate both day hikers and horseback riders, including those inĀ the Limpia Canyon Primitive Area, a 1,400-acre, undeveloped slice of theĀ Davis Mountains. This rugged land, which falls under the umbrella of DavisĀ Mountains State Park, features five-and-a-half miles of trails that rise inĀ elevation to around 600 feet above a dry Limpia Creek.

Trail enthusiasts will not want to miss one of the area’sĀ most popular hiking trailsā€”the Fort Trailā€”which linksĀ the state park with the Fort Davis National Historic Site.Ā This classic trek, reserved for foot traffic only, begins nextĀ to the state park’s interpretive center and switchbacksĀ the mountainside before following the ridgeline aboveĀ Hospital Canyon. About three miles from the interpretiveĀ center, hikers will reach a zigzag fence marking the boundary
between the park and the National Historic Site.Ā At this point, they can turn around and return to the stateĀ park trailhead; if they decide to continue, they will followĀ the National Historic Site’s North Ridge Trail, whichĀ offers sweeping views of the restored fort below, and thenĀ descend to the fort’s grounds on either the Hospital CanyonĀ Trail or the Tall Grass Trail Loop. (Hikers who crossĀ the boundary onto the National Historic Site propertyĀ should proceed to the museum and purchase a permit.Ā The site closes at 5 p.m., and visitors must be off theĀ hiking trails by then, so hikers should allow enoughĀ time for both a visit and a return hike.)

Another classic Davis Mountains day hike begins atĀ the Lawrence E. Wood Picnic Area, 24 miles northwestĀ of Fort Davis along Texas 118. The Madera Canyon HikingĀ Trail traverses a small corner of the 32,000-acre DavisĀ Mountains Preserve, which is owned by the Nature Conservancy.Ā The 2.4-mile loop navigates meadows and piƱonĀ pine-oak-juniper woodlands and sidesteps giant ponderosaĀ pines as it takes in some of the most stellar high-desertĀ country in Texas. Trekkers should watch for javelina,Ā mule deer, and the striking Montezuma quail.

Hikers who have thus far subsisted on a few handfulsĀ of trail mix might be ready for a treat. Back in town, iceĀ cream aficionados rely on the flag-flying, apple-greenĀ Caboose for summer sweets. The Caboose, a purveyorĀ of ice cream concoctions and snow cones, is literallyĀ a transplanted train caboose resting on a short bed ofĀ track. While a triple-scoop, chocolate-dipped homemadeĀ waffle cone with magic sprinkles remains theĀ standard, those who insist on watching their calories canĀ spring for a shaved ice doused with “Fuzzy Navel” syrup.

The Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce website offersĀ a list of eclectic B&Bs, guesthouses, hotels, motels, andĀ vacation rentals. For visitors who come to Fort Davis forĀ a more intimate experience, the Old Schoolhouse BedĀ & Breakfast on Front Street, just a few blocks from theĀ courthouse, remains a perennial favorite. The B&B sitsĀ beneath an orchard of shady pecans and offers threeĀ rooms and full, homemade breakfasts. Built in 1904, theĀ beautifully restored schoolhouse served Fort Davis studentsĀ until 1933. Today, owners Carla and Steve KennedyĀ live in the north wing and tend to guests in the three
secluded bedrooms in the south wing. Named Reading,Ā ‘Riting, and ‘Rithmetic, the three bedrooms offer aĀ nostalgic, old-schoolhouseĀ setting without requiring theĀ obligatory homework. A commonĀ area with fresh coffee, tea,Ā and healthy snacks providesĀ a gathering place. Guests canĀ enjoy the late-afternoon hoursĀ from the shade of the comfortable deck and share a cookie with Zeus, the residentĀ canine mascot. The Kennedys also operate Hope’s Ranch,Ā a three-bedroom, two-and-a-half-bath vacation homeĀ located on 40 acres along the edge of town.

Much of the Davis Mountains range is considered aĀ “sky island;’ a high-rise habitat elevated above the ChihuahuanĀ Desert, the largest desert in North America. TheĀ Chihuahuan, encompassing land that ranges from 1,000Ā to 10,000 feet in elevation, is one of the most biologicallyĀ diverse arid regions on the planet. The Davis Mountains,Ā with much of the area lying between 5,000 and 8,000 feetĀ above sea level, contribute significantly to this diversity.

Just outside of Fort Davis, the Chihuahuan DesertĀ Research Institute (CDRI) has set up shop on 507 acresĀ of grasslands and volcanic topography inĀ  order to promoteĀ appreciation, education, and public awareness ofĀ the Chihuahuan Desert region. The CDRI’s Nature CenterĀ helps accomplish this goal with interpretive exhibits,Ā a geologic timeline with 4.5 billion years of region-specificĀ rock samples, and 165 species of trees, shrubs, andĀ perennials in the Botanical Gardens. The latter has aboutĀ 200 species of Chihuahuan Desert cacti in its Cactus &Ā Succulent Collection alone. But the real learningĀ  experienceĀ lies along the looping trail that begins at the NatureĀ Center’s adobe Visitors’ Center.

The Modesta Canyon Trail travels across a pastoralĀ swale where cloud shadows race the red-tailed hawks,Ā their movements only a brief darkening over the gramaĀ grass before brightness returns. The trail drops quiteĀ suddenly into Modesta Canyon, where the walls of aĀ tumultuous rift bare the volcanic nature of the region’sĀ past Soon, treetops along the descent give way to aĀ shady understory, where horned owls and songbirds restĀ in the branches. Before long, the soft sounds of drips andĀ flows reveal the true Davis Mountains alchemy-waterĀ coming from rock. Modesta Spring, a tiny sapphire inĀ a landscape with a parched desert patina, seeps from a crack in the canyon wall and offers respite to maidenhairĀ fern, the thirsty bunting, foxes, bobcats, and finally to theĀ world-weary traveler looking for nothing more complicatedĀ than a cool, quiet place to get away.

The March 2024 cover of Texas Highways Magazine

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