Hill Country

A BUCOLIC LANDSCAPE RICH WITH CULTURAL AND NATURAL ATTRACTIONS REFLECTS TEXAS’ RURAL HERITAGE

PERFECT HARMONY

San Marcos boasts a vibrant culture along its scenic namesake waterway

By Rachel Rascoe

Thirty miles south of the Live Music Capital of the World sits San Marcos, a college town with a notable music history ofits own. Home to Texas State University and its student-run radio station KTSW 89.9, the city of 74,000 vibrates with songwriters’ circles, karaoke nights, music festivals, and career-launching venues. Perhaps the most famous venue is Cheatham Street Warehouse, which opened in 1974 and incubated Texas’ progressive country movement. It hosted early performances by Lone Star luminaries including George Strait and Stevie Ray Vaughan. Jazz has also been celebrated since 1989, when trumpet professor Keith Winking founded the Hill Country Jazz Festival—renamed the Butch Miles Jazz Festival in 2024 to honor the former faculty member and Count Basie Orchestra drummer. Beyond campus, Summer in the Park has hosted free outdoor concerts for 39 seasons, right off the spring-fed San Marcos River. The city is an ideal escape for nature and music lovers alike.

STAY

Melrose River Club
Envisioned as a quirky alternative to I-35 chain hotels, Melrose River Club rests on 12 acres along the water. Lodging includes 35 cabins for guests ages 16 and up. Don’t miss the champagne vending machine. Rooms start at $179/night.

SEE

The Meadows Center
There’s something soothing about peering into the blue-green depths of Spring Lake from a glass-bottom boat. Below, the Balcones Fault bubbles with 100 million gallons of water, making it one of the largest artesian springs in the state. Along with boat tours and paddleboard rentals, the center offers glowing kayaks for nighttime excursions.

Sewell Park
In 1917, led by math professor S.M. Sewell, students helped build this on-campus oasis, where the water is 72 degrees year-round. Activities include swimming, sand volleyball, and basket-
ball. Each May, Texas State grads jump into the river after commencement, gowns and all.

EAT

Don Japanese Kitchen
Over the years, Bobcats have claimed that Don’s waffle fries—drenched in house-made teriyaki and spicy mayo—are all that’s kept them alive. The namesake Donburi rice bowl includes chicken katsu and torched salmon.

LEARN

The Wittliff Collections
Find Sandra Cisneros’ Manolo Blahnik heels and Daniel Johnston’s handwritten letters before touring an exhibit on Jerry Jeff Walker’s 1973 album ¡Viva Terlingua! The free-to-visit collections sit on the seventh floor of Texas State’s Alkek Library.

SHOP

Sundance Records
Opened in 1977 by Bobby and Nancy Barnard, the original Sundance grew into one of Texas’ leading independent record shops before closing in 2012. The revived edition, now run by 1990s employee Kevin Kotara, has an eclectic record and CD collection and poster-plastered walls.

EVENT

Sacred Springs Powow
Indigenous people from the region call the river headwaters the Sacred Springs. Now home to The Meadows Center, this is the site of their creation story, where they believe all life bursts from the underworld. Every October, more than 6,000 attendees enjoy drumming, dancing, storytelling, and a market on the shores, organized by the Indigenous Cultures Institute. sspowwow.com

RV INFO

Pecan Park Riverside RV Park is on a bluff overlooking the river. This 24-acre campground has 116 sites, shady pecan trees, an indoor pool, a dog park, and a kids playscape. Sites start at $60/night. pecanpark.com

South Llano River State Park in Junction. Photo by Chase Fountain/Texas Parks & Wildlife Department

TEXAS STATE PARKS

South Llano River State Park

A hidden gem in the Hill Country, this park is known for its clear, spring-fed river and abundant wildlife. Enjoy tubing, swimming, and fishing in the refreshing waters, or explore the park’s extensive network of trails for hiking and biking. The park is also a sanctuary for birdwatchers, with vibrant birdlife
seen throughout the year.

“I feel so privileged to have access to a big outdoor playground with a beautiful river, four awesome bird blinds, an array of wildlife, and amazing stargazing in an International Dark Sky Park.” —Lisa Luff, park host volunteer

More Hill Country State Parks

For more information, directions, and amenities, get your free mobile guide to all 80-plus state parks: texasstateparks.org/app

Albert & Bessie Kronkosky State Natural Area
Blanco State Park Colorado Bend State Park
Devil’s Sinkhole State Natural Area
Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Garner State Park
Government Canyon State Natural Area
Guadalupe River State Park
Hill Country State Natural Area
Kickapoo Cavern State Park
Inks Lake State Park
Lake Brownwood State Park
Longhorn Cavern State Park
Lost Maples State Natural Area
Lyndon B. Johnson State Park & Historic Site
Mckinney Falls State Park
Old Tunnel State Park
Pedernales Falls State Park

*opening soon

Mason County Courthouse. Photo by Stan A. Williams.

HISTORIC TEXAS COURTHOUSES

Many of the county courthouse towers that punctuate the Hill Country sky have been restored to their original splendor thanks to the Texas Historical Commission’s Texas Historic Courthouse Preservation Program.

The Mills County Courthouse in Goldthwaite opened in 1913 and features a distinctive neoclassical design. In Brady, the 1899 McCulloch County Courthouse boasts handsome exterior stonework and impressive Roman- inspired arches. The Lampasas County Courthouse in Lampasas is a Second Empire-style building completed in 1884 with a distinctive mansard roof. The 1909 Williamson County Courthouse in Georgetown was designed by Charles H. Page of Austin in the beaux-arts style. In Llano, the 1892 Llano County Courthouse features a Romanesque Revival style with a corner tower.

The Mason County Courthouse in Mason was recently rebuilt in its original Classical Revival glory following a devastating fire in 2021. The 1931 Menard County Courthouse in Menard served as the prototype for other Texas courthouses in the art deco style. In Sonora, the 1891 Sutton County Courthouse exemplifies the Second Empire style, with impressive handwork in the architectural details. The 1891 Edwards County Courthouse, located on a prominent corner of Main Street in Rocksprings, represents the Romanesque Revival style. The Kendall County Courthouse in Boerne was initially built in 1870 using German vernacular construction. In New Braunfels, the Comal County Courthouse, designed by courthouse architect J. Riely Gordon in the Romanesque Revival style, was constructed in 1898. The San Saba County Courthouse in San Saba was built in 1911 and contains classical elements like a domed clock tower and ionic capitals.

For more information: texastimetravel.com/courthouses