Piney Woods
Sam I Am: Exploring Huntsville’s history and lush scenery
By Julia Jones
Sam Houston casts a long shadow over the Piney Woods town of Huntsville, population 46,000. The former U.S. general and two-time Republic of Texas president made his home here in the 1860s. Huntsville hasn’t forgotten its most famous resident—in 1994, a local artist built a likeness of Houston from concrete and steel mesh. Sometimes called Big Sam, the statue towers 67 feet in the air above Interstate 45, greeting visitors from the south with a steely stare. Streets and schools and a forest bear his name. So does Lake Raven in Huntsville State Park—Houston was given the nickname by a Cherokee chief named Oolooteka, whom he considered a surrogate father. You can learn more about Houston’s fascinating history in this spirited college town, which has plenty more to offer: classic restaurants, gorgeous gardens, and majestic forests that could convince anyone to set down roots and stay for a little while.
STAY
The Williams Ranch
Nestled on 40 acres with a petting zoo and cowboy-themed rentals, the ranch offers seven places to stay on-site, just 5 miles from the center of town. Hunker down in one of three cabins, or enjoy a furnished RV. On-site activities include hiking, horseback riding, and lake fishing.
EAT & DRINK
Sam’s Table
Unwind after a long day with tapas and drinks at Sam’s Table, where the main dining room is graced with a light-up sketch of the countryman’s head. The butternut squash soup is subtly sweet and pairs well with a bruschetta or other shareable plate. For dessert, head down the street to City Hall Cafe and Pie Bar.
Texas State Parks
CADDO LAKE STATE PARK
This park on the banks of the Big Cypress Bayou offers a landscape replete with scenic views and paddling opportunities. Traverse the enchanting waters on one of many canoe and kayak trails, and explore the scenic hiking trails. The park’s diverse wildlife makes it a haven for birdwatchers and animal enthusiasts. Spend the night camping under the stars or in a cozy historic cabin for a truly immersive nature retreat.
“Inside Caddo Lake State Park, a sense of wonder, exploration, peace, and tranquility are all ignited. When you see the Saw Mill Pond for the first time, it feels like you’ve been immersed in a prehistoric world. … This 400-acre park holds some of the richest biodiversity in East Texas, including the stunning pileated woodpecker, a personal favorite.” — Lane Neely, park interpreter
MORE PINEY WOODS STATE PARKS
Atlanta State Park
Daingerfield State Park
Huntsville State Park
Lake Bob Sandlin State Park
Lake Livingston State Park
Martin Creek Lake State Park
Martin Dies Jr. State Park
Mission Tejas State Park
Tyler State Park
Village Creek State Park
For more information, directions, and amenities, get your free mobile guide to all 80-plus state parks: texasstateparks.org/app
Mr. Hamburger
Opened in 1959, the restaurant has long been a local institution for hungry Sam Houston State University students, residents, and visitors. Try the onion rings or the chocolate shake. Mr. Hamburger was initially shuttered in 2005, but was reopened to a grateful public in 2011.
LEARN
Sam Houston Memorial Museum
Learn about Sam Houston’s life by viewing the buildings where he lived, worked, and died. The shaded duck pond is an idyllic picnic spot, and the gift shop sells items like woven bookmarks made during on-site weaving demonstrations. Make sure to visit the 1858 Steamboat House, where Houston uttered his last words.
Wynn Home Arts & Visitor Center
Local art is on display at this historical home near the square. The 19th-century Wynn Home allows self-guided tours and gives arts and crafts classes for kids. The outside area features a pollinator garden and a tactile learning garden, as well as statuary from local makers.
SHOP
Bluebonnet Square Antiques
The town is bursting with antiques shops selling goods from decades past. Start at this store on the square, a two-story shop with 22 vendor stalls selling specialty items ranging from early-edition books to collectibles like baseball cards to a plentiful stash of cowboy boots.
SEE
Huntsville State Park
The park partially reopened after heavy rains caused significant flooding in early 2024. Months later, Hurricane Beryl uprooted hundreds of trees. The park’s famous Piney Woods hikes offer a glimpse of towering loblolly pines, slithering alligators, and even the occasional beaver. If you’re up for an adventure, try one of six mountain biking paths through the park.
The Boot House and Hat House
These larger-than-life structures are among the most visible works by artist and homebuilder Dan Phillips. They share a contiguous lot in the 2600 block of 12th Street (also known as SH 30, Huntsville’s primary east-west thoroughfare).
EVENTS
Baptized Texan
March 2 brings Sam Houston’s Birthday & Texas Independence Day Celebration to Huntsville’s Oakwood Cemetery. As part of a curious Texas tradition, out-of-staters can be “baptized Texan” by kneeling at the grave of Sam Houston and being anointed with pond water. On April 26, General Sam Houston Day is held on the grounds of the Sam Houston Memorial Museum, bringing visitors back to the 1800s. Actors and historians dress in period costume, teaching crafts and telling of Houston’s life. Admission to both events is free.
RV INFO
Huntsville RV Park boasts two fenced dog parks, free laundry, wildlife viewing, and a stocked pond for fishing just 10 miles from the center of town. Spots start at $50/night. huntsvillervpark.com; 936-600-7878
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