Prairies and Lakes

Hidden Hamlet: A weekend getaway in the community of La Grange

By Katey P. Outka

Ask most Texans about La Grange and they’ll probably say one of two things: “I’ve driven past there,” or “Like the ZZ Top song?” Yes, La Grange’s claim to fame is the Chicken Ranch, the famed brothel with “a lotta nice girls,” as the ZZ Top song goes—the same brothel that inspired the movie The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas. But the town has a rich history beyond the Chicken Ranch. Its growth was fueled by an influx of Czech and German immigrants in the mid-1800s. Many of their descendants still reside in the area. The Fayette County Courthouse looms over the town square, which is lined with restaurants and boutiques perfect for picking up tchotchkes. Over the past decade, La Grange’s new businesses have proven the small town is more than just a place to pass through on a drive between Austin and Houston. It’s well worth stopping a night or two to experience what the community has to offer.

STAY

Flophouze
Airbnbs dot La Grange’s historic square, but if you’re looking for a boutique hotel, the neighboring community of Round Top (famous for the biannual antiques fair) has plenty to pick from. One standout is the Flophouze, a complex of converted shipping containers featuring a pool and views of the Hill Country. Each lodging is beautifully furnished, with a kitchen and bathroom. Stays start at $175/night.

SEE

Kreische Brewery
In 1849, German immigrant Heinrich Ludwig Kreische purchased 172 acres on what residents call “The Bluff,” a neighborhood just outside city limits. Kreische found fresh spring water under his family home and opened the brewery. After his death in 1882, the brewery closed, but visitors can tour the ruins and learn about Texas brewing history.

EAT & DRINK

Weikel’s Bakery
Eating a kolache is basically a requirement for those visiting La Grange. And not the meat-filled ones—those are called klobasniky. You’ll want the real thing from Weikel’s Bakery. For an authentic Texas Czech experience, opt for apricot or poppy seed (or better yet, treat yourself to a variety six-pack). Weikel’s also serves homemade noodles and made-to-order sandwiches.

Reba’s Deli And Pizzeria
The pizzeria, opened in 1999 by former New Yorker Joe Schroeder and named after his youngest daughter, also serves flatbreads, hot sandwiches, salads, homemade fudge, and hand-dipped Blue Bell ice cream. The family-friendly spot stands just a few blocks from the town square.

La Grange Brewing Company
Visitors can take a drive out to the brewery, located on Blissful Folly Farm, to taste local beers, wines, meads, and ciders brewed on-site. Visitors can learn about sustainable brewing techniques and pet goats. Tasting tours are offered on Saturdays and cost $30/person.

Bodega Wine Market
The cozy, cute little spot on the town square offers wine as well as craft beer; a variety of cheese boards; and a full menu featuring flatbreads, soups, and sandwiches. Open weekdays until 7 p.m., it’s a great spot to start your evening before heading over to Mac’s Daqs, a daiquiri bar on the opposite side of the town square, or Jay Dee’z, a sports bar.

LEARN

Texas Czech Heritage and Culture Museum
Texas is home to more Czech Americans than any other state; La Grange’s museum demonstrates that fact through cultural artifacts and memorabilia. The museum houses the Texas Czech Village—several buildings with historical significance to the Texas Czech community.

M-K-T Depot Museum
Located in a yellow-and-green train depot built in 1897, the M-K-T Depot Museum pays tribute to the history of local railroads. The original building, located on the same site near the present-day town square, was open for only 10 years before it burned down. Visitors can see memorabilia and artifacts relating to the Missouri-Kansas-Texas railroad, as well as a couple of historical train cars.

EVENTS

Culture? Czech!
The Texas Czech Heritage and Cultural Center hosts May Fest, an annual celebration of all things Czech. The slavnost, or festival, kicks off with a tribute to Czech immigrants who settled in Texas. It’s followed by a fried chicken lunch and live music all afternoon. Visitors can enjoy a kolache table, a classic car show, a country store, and more activities celebrating the Czech community.

RV INFO

The Suncatcher RV Park on US 77 is located on a quiet slice of country land a five-minute drive from the heart of La Grange. The park offers showers, restrooms, and Wi-Fi. suncatcherrvpark.com